Nepal - Gokyo valley and Everest Base Camp trekGorak Shep to Kala Pattar (5643m) and descent to Dingboche |
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Day 13 - Gorak Shep to Kala Pattar (5643m) and descent to Dingboche (4400m) After another cold night ('normal' night time temperatures at Gorak
Shep in the autumn are around -10 to -15°C) we wake up early for
the walk up to Kala Pattar (the Black Hill or Black Rock). Kala Pattar is a popular destination for trekkers who make it to Gorak Shep (more so than Everest Base Camp it seems) so you will see quite a few people puffing their way up the hill. The views from the summit (and even lower down) are memorable. Everest views are the best you can get from anywhere as a trekker. (The views from the summits of Pumori, Lobuche or Nuptse are probably better but this is only accessible to climbers). I noticed that more people seem to go to Kala Pattar early in the morning. Personally I don't see much of an advantage to going up at dawn because the sun rises behind Everest (from Kala Pattar you are looking east towards Everest). OK, the light will be clearer but if there is wind (and there often is up there) it will feel very very cold. On the other hand if you go in the afternoon (or evening which would be great foor sunset light) you risk getting low clouds and no views at all. The descent from Kala Pattar is easy, just a quick straight down walk to Gorak Shep. Some people think that they can go to Kala Pattar and Everest Base Camp in the same day. This is only possible if you can walk fast so in effect only possible if you are perfectly acclimatized.
Later in the morning we head back down to Lobuche, an easier walk than on the way up. Then after a short ascent we reach the Thokla pass where the so-called Everest sherpa memorials are located. These consists of cairns and stupas built there in memory of sherpas and climbers who died in the region whilst climbing. It is a beautiful and moving place. After a steep descent you keep hading straight for Ama Dablam on easy almost flat terrain until you reach a ridge just above the large village of Dingboche. This is the first village (permanent settlement) since we left Kyangjuma over a week ago.
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